T Nation

What Coat/Suit Size Do You Wear?

I went to get a coat today and for the first time I couldn’t fit in anything under a 48R. The last time I bought a suit it was 46R, now the largest I tried was a 50R.

I ended up going with this coat. I have to go to Switzerland for work this summer and every night is fancy night with my boss. It’s pretty annoying actually because I am a cornfed Illinois man and getting pimped out for 5 stars every night isn’t in my blood. I get nervous around all that silverware too. I just have to remember that with each course you move from the outside in.

Anyway, I digress. The point was that I was shopping all day for suits and coats and almost every suit I tried on had a huge waist. It’s like the coats with wide shoulders are cut for a man with an even larger stomach. So I ended up looking somewhat like a bell wearing them. The best fitting jacket I tried on was one by Joseph Abboud. Based on previous experience I also found a nice fitting cut with a JCrew suit.

Anyway, what’s your guys’ measurement and what do you do to look good in a suit? Tailor? Specific brand? etc…

I just learned from you by reading your thread asking a question.

“work from the outside in” with the silverware. No idea. Thanks a bunch.

but to help you, I’m 6’2" and 240 pounds. Much fatter than I want to be.

I just got a suit 2 months ago with 2 jackets. One is 48L, the other 46L. Even though I’m still pretty fat, I had to get it adjusted because my shoulders are wider than my waist. Called it “athletic cut” or whatever.

I went to men’s wearhouse. Once you pay to have something you bought there altered, I’m sure it’s free alterations on it for life.

Yea, the silverware tip is invaluable for hanging out with rich people. There is so much more though. One time the waiter chose me to pick out the red wine, I was so fucked. To me the 3 buck Chuck from TraderJoe’s is good.

About getting the suits tailored… I tend to think they look worse after being tailored. Of course I’ve never had a hand-fitted suit, so it could just be the quality of the tailoring. And I’ve heard the term athletic-cut too, I can’t seem to find much of it though.

I assume that the reason the JCrew suit fit so well is because they cater to young men and maybe young men aren’t fat yet. I dunno. I can tell you though that the Brooks Brothers suits look horrible on me. The stomach part of the coat is HUGE. They are too expensive anyway. They have nice wrinkle free shirts though.

[quote]beebuddy wrote:
And I’ve heard the term athletic-cut too, I can’t seem to find much of it though.

[/quote]

From what I’ve seen, not even an athletic cut will do the trick. I’ve read that an athletic cut is anywhere up to a 5" difference in between the chest and waist.

Most people here will probably need an “extreme” cut - which is more like a 10" difference.

[quote]NateOrade wrote:
Most people here will probably need an “extreme” cut - which is more like a 10" difference.[/quote]

“Most?” no.

[quote]TJN713 wrote:
NateOrade wrote:
Most people here will probably need an “extreme” cut - which is more like a 10" difference.

“Most?” no. [/quote]

You’re probably right. Sad.

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Why can they not give you a 48 jacket and a 32 pant? WTF? And then taper the jacket to make it not look like a flowing dress?

Perhaps US sizes are different to EU sizes but I needed to get a 54 coat with 32 pants.

I got it from Zara (Switched the pants with the 36 that came with it). Only “commercial” entity that has a decent-ish cut for broader men.

Other than that, I got a few suits made in London as the sales were on with the tailors. (See. Sartoriani)

I’m currently sporting a 50inch chest with 40inch waist. untapered… so i look like a pinstripe rectangle. :stuck_out_tongue:

Before working out it was 42, havent wore a coat since, so I dont know, im guessing 44-46.

[quote]msd0060 wrote:
Why can they not give you a 48 jacket and a 32 pant? WTF? And then taper the jacket to make it not look like a flowing dress?[/quote]

Because when dealing with a designer suit, the jacket and pant have been cut from the same piece of material, and you cannot mix and match because you could get uneven coloring or pinstripes.

At some places they may mix and match, but any reputable store will not mix and match.

The standard drop in the US is 6". A 42’ jacket with a 36’ pant. Some european designers (givenchy, etc) have an 8" drop.

Anything more and you either need a private label designer, or a custom made /fitted suit.

[quote]swissrugby67 wrote:
I got it from Zara (Switched the pants with the 36 that came with it). Only “commercial” entity that has a decent-ish cut for broader men.[/quote]
That’s a good point, their larger sizes don’t assume you have a huge gut. I bought a blazer there a few weeks ago - size 56 European, or 46 US.

I have a 54" chest and a 35" waist. These will vary slightly depending on what store I walk into, apparently not every taylor uses the same measuring tape. Every suite that I have is just a jacket that fits my chest/shoulders that was matched to a pair of slacks.

I also have to deal with the gigantic pouch in the front of the jacket. Kinda makes ya feel like a fucking kangaroo. The only other option that I have is to have a suite taylor made for me, but that is VERY expensive, and if my composition changes, then it is altering time.

The problem that we have is that most professional business men are fat asses and have a very poor body composition. This is why the standard suite is a variation of what was once known as the “portly cut”(an old taylor told me this).

the cube cut… or tiangle cut in other words?

The thread to cut your suit from…

http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2310483

[quote]DSmolken wrote:
swissrugby67 wrote:
I got it from Zara (Switched the pants with the 36 that came with it). Only “commercial” entity that has a decent-ish cut for broader men.
That’s a good point, their larger sizes don’t assume you have a huge gut. I bought a blazer there a few weeks ago - size 56 European, or 46 US.[/quote]

Ah thanks for the tip! My wife shops at Zara and it’s fairly cheap if I remember correctly. I’ll have to go with her next time.

54" Extra long jacket
40" Waist with 34" inseam.

Try a sport coat and slacks. You can get the fit you want and save some money if you don’t go overboard.

Suit seperates are your friend, most places like Macy’s Milton’s etc sell seperates where you buy the correct coat adn then the pants are on another rack. I had to buy a suit last week and my 48r athletic still fits fine but when I tried on suits ZI had to go to a 50 and really had to have the pants taken in I looked like Bruce Banner after he bacame the Hulk the pants hanging off