I have only heard by giving it to your self but then what? I feel like cant be good enough, are there inexpensive strip tests or something?
What do you mean by testing? To see if the raw powder you got is actually test enanthate? See how pure the test e powder is? To see if you have a finished product that will hold and not crash? See if your product is sterile? See if your product is actually decently close to the intended test e at 250mg per ml?
Off the bat I do perform a melt test on my raw’s. You simply need a way to have a heat source that can be controlled and held constant at any given temperature in a range. Yes u could try to have a thermometer and watch the sample at it heats and see that it melts at the intended degree range but that way isn’t controlled enough in my mind. I got a digital hot plate it is actually intended for cell phone screen repair. I can tell it I want it to be 120 degrees and it will heat to the temp and Hold it within -/+ 1 degree. The scientific versions of this meant for actual lab work are hundreds of dollars. My model meant for screen repair was under a hundred but it isn’t as accurate as the scientific. I feel for my means it works. I simply put a small sample on the plate and start heating the sample by ten degrees until I am within 10 degrees of intended melt point. Once I am close to where it is supposed to melt I only go by two degrees so I can see if part of it melts earlier than the rest. It’s not the most accurate way to test purity but it should show if their is something mixed in to dilute the product.
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Thank you~! sorry for not being specific aswell. I did think about that so now I guess ill give it a shot. but after that how do can u tell if it is sterile or made correctly? it looks nice and clear too.
It is made “correctly” if you followed the instructions from a proper recipe. Basically is if clear, not cloudy, no swirls, particle free and not separating (there isn’t like a layer of clear colorless then a layer of colored oil). As long as you used good benzyl alcohol between 1 and 2 precent then it shouldn’t allow anything to live and grow in the solution.
As far as being sterile, does it have benzyl alcohol in it? The BA doesn’t sterilize it officially but it just about does. Did you filter it through a 0.22 um filter? The filtering actually is fine enough to filter and catch bacteria. As long as you did all that and did not stick your dirty finger in it before putting it in the vial then it should be good. The other BIG one and even large UGLs don’t always do this, did you heat it to over boiling temperature for at least ten minutes? If you didn’t and are worried then put a venting needle into the septum of the vial. Make sure the end of the needle is in the air space above the oil then bake the vial at 225-250f for 30-45 minutes.
Now I add in this last bit as some friendly knowledge sharing. After I brew a batch I always let it sit for at least a week at room temperature, obviously it is the sealed vials. Now that sitting should let most viruses die because they need a host to live. There shouldn’t be any viruses in the vial but I like to be careful. Also the vial is sealed so there is limited oxygen and everything that lives needs oxygen except a few things found in the deep ocean heat plumes. This sitting for a week also allows time to see if the solution crashes. You don’t want to inject a solution today that is going to crash in three or four.
Really there is no way to know if the finished product is all good without testing it because even a few vials from the same batch can bad while the rest are good but usually that is not the case.
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Dude thank you so much you were way on point. My first one did get a little cloudy but the 2nd time was the charm nice and clear and this time I used sterile filters not the non like I did with the first one accident. The win with 190grain alcohol seems to be staying clear but the last one looked like a damn snow globe lol. found out I wasn’t supposed to heat the 190grain just the peg300. thank u again!
Yeah winny is notorious for not holding. Those water based injections (95% of the injectable winny) are always milky and cloudy, and the winny ALWAYS settles out. So seeing a fine layer of crystals on the bottom of your winny is going happen. If you are interested I am going to be trying an oil based winny recipe once my new supplies get in. Get my email from my profile and send me a message, if the oil based recipe works and holds I’ll send it to you. I actually have three different ones but there is one I trust above the others, it has guiacol in it and that stuff is the “secret” “super solvent” you see the internet hinting at on these recipe forums.
Running a temperature test is a easy way to tell the raw powder is real or not, based on the melting point, but some times raw powder like boldenone eq or nandrolone deca came in very low melting point, so normally substances have low melting point / test ud / eq / deca etc., got melted already under room temperature, it’s hard to say the raw powder’s quality
I know some ppl put the raw powder into a cleaned oven, with a simple solution of sterilized oil and heat up to the melting point, ore slight above the melting point to test the quality, also there are some ppl bought paper strips online to test some certain type of anabolic steroid powder, or send the raw material to a university lab to perform a quality test, this way sure cost a bit of money, but you’ll know exactly the quality
The solution is important too, I prefer to mix mct oil with VG, BA and DMSO, if I tried to make some high concentration dosage, just add on 0.5% of BA and DMSO the solution will be able to dissolve some short ester @high concentration, for example: trestolone acetate / masteron prop etc. Or use cheaper solution something like olive oil for long ester, grape seed oil for short ester, no need to stick with the solution all the time