T Nation

Training for Rock Climbing


Hi J am a 18 Year old rock climmber, but I only have the possibility to go climmbing on the weekend, but I can use a home gym every day! I need your help to develop a good climmbing spezific workout. I already searched the internet but the most training plans have the same value as a bodybuilding workout from a bodybuilding magazine.

I already constructed a few special training tools for Rock climmbing (see image) and i have a brick wall in front of my house so J can climb a little bit on that wall.

I will also do some cardio to improve my VO2 max and PNF streches to improve flexibility.

Please T-Nation help me constructing a climmbing spezific workout!

Ps:More precise Questions

What should I do to improve my GPP ?(general Physical Preparation)

How should my SPP training look?

Do I have to conjugate exercises?

Do I need dynamic effort for chin ups?


Here is an other training tool of mine!

[quote]Mr.Rock wrote:
Here is an other training tool of mine![/quote]

Naturally the best training for climbing is to climb, but I understand you can’t get outside or to the gym all the time.

Do you have access to the hang board all the time? If so, that would be excellent to play on. Try heal hooks combined with pulls. Also play around with different grips and positions. Make up games with the board that will keep you on it for at least a couple minutes at a time. Don’t be afraid to use your feet, since that will help you vary your positions.

Good luck!

I would get off the campus board unless you have been climbing for a while. I would suggest you climb 2-4x/wk. An indoor gym during the week and outside on the weekend. If possible, outside all the time would be ideal. As far as gym work, pullups will serve you well.

To improve climbing ability quickly, focus on technique and not strength. Focus on strength only when your technique is almost flawless.

You can buy some books written by Eric Horst for climbing specific books.

There is no gym in my town!
But I thougth of a more special programm with special exercises and so on. I have been climbing already for a long time (8 Years)(I climb in germany, where you got bolds every where, so you do not need friends and that stuff…).

Where in Germany?

[quote]Mr.Rock wrote:
There is no gym in my town!
But I thougth of a more special programm with special exercises and so on. I have been climbing already for a long time (8 Years)(I climb in germany, where you got bolds every where, so you do not need friends and that stuff…). [/quote]

How good is your technique? That is still the fastest way too improve. You can build a small climbing wall that will allow you to practice technique and increase grip strength.

As far as a specialized program, it would consist of pull ups, rows, grip exercises and plenty of time practicing technique and climbing. Bench press, shoulder exercises and wrist extension and pronation/supination would all need to be included as well to avoid muscle imbalances and injury. I would still do some leg exercises with the intent of building strength more than size, because you don’t want to have heavier legs to pull up the rock. You could always add a little weight to you while climbing to increase strength where you need it most.

Check out books by Horst for more information. If you want more specifics, let me know what type of climbing you perform (sport, trad, bouldering, etc.) and any other questions you have.

Hi,
Rock climbing has fascinated me and have watched a live competition in CA. Pretty amazing!!

Were you able to check out Poliquin’s articles on various types of pullups? Apparently different bar widths by using towels are helpful. Chad Waterbury also has an article on functional grip and forearm strength which utilizes bands and plates. Because there’s no gym in your area, then use bodyweight exercises in addition to weight plates.

You’ve been climbing for 8 years, how’s your flexibility? If you ever have time, try Ashtanga yoga which uses heat and breath to stretch the whole spine and adds strength to legs and torso. I normally would not suggest this to a regular person but I suspect you’re pliable already.

You seem to know how to train. Would enjoy watching climbing videos.
Good luck and hope you found all your info.

I assume you weigh a lot more than 25 pounds. Don’t let your mind limit you on this exercise. Push yourself and go heavy.

[quote]Mr.Rock wrote:
Here is an other training tool of mine![/quote]

@ gold `s gym = climbing gym not weight room !

@ all
I do normal climbing and bouldering to improve climbing technik
But my technik and my mental power are okay. I have to work on strength , endurance , burst and flexibility (I just started to do PNF streches, this will improve my Rom very fast)

@ graphic

I climb in Eifel, Frankenjura and Belgium.