Coach Davies - Thanks for reply, although I have a few more questions for you. First of all within my weight routines do you have any general guidelines that I should stick to when it comes to sets and reps?
Secondly, moving away from my weight routines to the overall structure of my program, here is what I have so far. I am training 5 times a week, doing GPP and stretching on all of those days and weight training on 3 of them. Can you give me any guidelines as to how much time I should spend on these activities, and also on actual bouldering, campusing and other activities within the workout?
Zane - you need to tell me your workout timeframe. However if you were to set aside 2 hours for a training season, I would dedicate half to climbing on days we do on-land training. Before I go indepth on the organization of this, let me know if 2 hours is reasonable.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - 2 hours is fine. I plan on doing this 5 times a week in the evening after work.
Zane - lets address your schedule. If you are going to dedicate 2 hours of training daily, I would suggest the following outline. Your stretching will take 24 minutes total, 12 near the start and 12 at the conclusion of the session. With 60 minutes of Sport work, you will have roughly 45 minutes to On-land training. This needs to be broken up into GPP, Proprioreception work and Strength Development. I would further recommend that your Strength work is focused upon fuctional aspects. Functional strength training should be performed on Monday,Wedesday & Friday. On Tuesday and Wednesday, you will have additional time to spend on GPP and Proprioreception training. With these factors in mind, we now need to turn our attention to your specific needs and we can progress further.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - First of all I have 3 questions.
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What is propriorecption work?
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Is sport work, in my case, actual work on the wall? Or would this also involve using the campus board and doing pull ups?
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Is ab work counted as a part of the strength development component of training?
Now, in regards to my specific needs I assume you are meaning needs specific to myself as an individual as opposed to those specific to bouldering/climbing. If so, then I have thought of a few things:
- Flexibility
- Dynos (dynamic pulls)
- Finger strength
- Pull through (reaching for a higher hold with the lower hand)
- Committing to a movement. To expand on this, sometimes I find that just as I go to jump for a move I back out because I think “what if I miss?” . I find this to be very infuriating.
Hopefully I have understood what you asked for. If not can you please clarify exactly what you would like to know.
One last thing, I am feeling really enthusiastic about this and can’t wait to put this all into action. Thanks.
Zane - with answers to your questions 1)- in essence, your bodyawareness as it moves with naturally effects balance. Thats a fairly crude defination I gave you but good enough. 2)primarily wall but naturally because your sport involves pulling it will also carryover to the board. This time will also involve dexterity issues you may have never considered, ie do you move better to one side more than the other. In this time period, our goal is to develop the technical side of your craft. 3) towards yourself personally - We already uncoved your flexibility problem and are taking control of that. Body weight and composition. This might be getting a lit to indepth for your pursuit right know but since we are having fun putting a program together might as well do it right. I will wait for your reply.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - First up, a request. Can you please give me an example of proprioreception work?
Now if I read your post right you only wanted my body weight and composition. I currently weight 76kg at a height of 175cm. I have never had my bodyfat measured, but I can say that I am lean enough that I can see my abs.
Zane, numerous drills - I would want you to work daily on balancing on a Swiss ball, first kneeling then standing and eventually squatting. I would also do a great amount of work blindfolded using a fairly easy set of drills on a suspended peg board. Balance beam/teeter board - I use a lot of different items. Does that help.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - Thanks, thats a great help. Now, is there anything else you would like to know, or would like me to expand upon?
Also I do have another question, this one relating to warming up. Is there anything in particular I should do to warm up (before I do the stretching at the start of my session)? And would I consider the warm up part of the GPP component of my session?
I also have a question concerning the warm-up. How do you sequence stretching, GPP, and the actual warm-up(ie. jogging, jumprope, bagwork, forward skipping drills)? Also, would the 2 hour schedule you outlined for Zane work for most athletes? BTW, great post.
Zane - warmup procedures are not included in GPP component. I will try to shoot some photos for your warmup - until then we will need to utilize the simplier elements of rope work.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Nathan - one of my coaching trademarks is that no man is the same as the next. Each athlete is his own special warrior ready to explode. Zane’s needs as a climber is different from everyone elses. I am sorry that I could not give you a easier template. A great reason why I have refused to publish books. However I will pleased to answer your questions.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - Should I use the jump rope routine you outlined in another thread? And is there anything I should do differently?
Zane-if only for an indication of phyical conditioning. Try it and get back to me
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - I’ll give the jump rope routine a go tonight and get back to you. I did some rounds of it yesterday, as a warm up, and it felt good. Also I saw the post Kato started on core/ab training. Is core/ab training something I should be doing every training session?
Zane - I asked Kato to take care of that for me and yes you must have total control of your core. - By the way, where do you climb? A few of us, along with Kato are heading into Southern Utah shortly if that interests you.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - Southern Utah sounds pretty good, although a little far away - I live and climb in New Zealand. In regards to this thread you’ve asked me some questions and said that you’ll go further detail. Should I assume that you’re working on something for me? Or should I just keep on asking questions?
New Zealand - sounds like we’re the ones who should plan the round trip. I will review the outstanding points - if you could do the same and we’ll get this done. As far as asking questions - always ask, but one at a time is helpful.
In faith,
Coach Davies
Coach Davies - I did the jump rope routine - 6x 3 min. rounds followed by a round of active rest (rounds 1,2,3 - 15 Burpees, rounds 4,5,6 15 Star Jumps) and it felt great. I completed it, but I found the star jumps the hardest. I have always been good at jump rope though, plus I spent 6 months boxing (had to give it up due to hectic university schedule and a student budget) and doing a lot of rope work.
In your last post you said you would review the outstanding points and asked if I could do the same. What do you mean exactly? I’ll save my next question until my next post.
Zane-I’m glad you like the rope routine. Its a nice little warmup that utilize a lot. We’ve went through so much I just would like to summarize what points we need to review or answer. In faith, Coach Davies