I have been rock climbing for just over a year now. For the first year it was all I did in terms of training. Now I’m adding additional movements into my training to bring up weak areas and to keep my body balanced. I’ve been doing this for two months and I’ve noticed big improvements in both my climbing and my general strength and athletic ability. I am a 23 year old male, six feet tall, 160 pounds, 11% body fat.
Here’s what I have in terms of equipment:
-Climbing training wall. It’s very steep and I use it to train for power. I don’t train for endurance right now because I’m also sport climbing outside a lot, and that’s the best way to build endurance. Also, as the saying goes, “without power, you have nothing to endure”
-Two dumbells, with weights to load them up to around 25 pounds
-Two 45-pound plates and two 35-pound plates (no barbell)
-Reverse fly machine
My main goal, both right now and long term, is to build as much relative strength as possible. I’m not yet strong enough for advanced calisthenics movements but I am building up to them (almost have an L-sit, following progressions for dragon flags and front levers). Most importantly, I train to be the best climber I can be.
Most of my training involves bouldering on the training wall, and it needs to stay that way because it allows me to get strong while building efficient technique and movement patterns. Here are the additional movements I’m training.
Warm-up is always Essential 8 Mobility Drills
DAY 1 (This is a climbing day)
-3x5 box jumps (after warm-up, before training)
-5 sets of deadbugs while warming up on easier boulder problems
-3x10 bulgarian split squat
-3x12 reverse fly
DAY 2 (This is a climbing day)
-3x5 plyo pushups (after warm-up, before training)
-5 sets glute bridges*
-5 sets pushups*
-3 sets pullups*
*I haven’t figured out appropriate weight/rep schemes yet for these. Today is day 2 of this new training schedule and I need to assess where my strength is at.
DAY 3 (not climbing)
-12 minute ab and glute fix
-5 sets side planks (leg elevated)
-Hip, shoulder, and t-spine mobility (These are weak points for me in climbing. I also have poor posture which is why they are included)
Same as day 1
Same as day 2
-Cosgrove’s Evil 8 complex
I use a 6>1>6 pyramid with 90 seconds rest between rounds. Cosgrove advises only going 6>1 but I don’t have heavy enough weights to become tired after that.
-5 sets side planks
-Hip, shoulder, and t-spine mobility
Let me know what you think. I’m open to suggestions for better reaching my goals. Just please remember I’m not a bodybuilder or powerlifter
P.S. I use Plazma pre and intra and MAG-10 post on climbing days. I also take Flameout and ZMA daily.