T Nation

Rock Clilmbing Training

Hey Everyone,

A friend of mine is going to be competing in the USA Climbing National Championships in SF in about a month. He wanted some help with a training routine he could do and I am not really knowledgable about rock climbing training techniques… so if anyone has any advice, or routines I could give him please let me know! Thanks!

well i know they do ladders and slat bored climbing. they also do pinch grip climbing. lots of static hold, grip work, speed clims. and laders are kinda like what you would think its like climbing up the underside a lader hands only. slats are the same thing but small half inch thick boards nailed to a leaning wall. then pinch grip[ clims is just sliming a inclined wall with nothing but pinch grip holds. thats just some of then things my bodies do.

Look for 2 books written by Horst; Training For Climbing and How to Climb 5.12. The books should answer most of your questions. My suggestions:

Only hypertrophy muscles that will assist in climbing (a big chest and legs is excess weight)

Strengthen grip for all possible hold types (look up hit strips at nicros.com, allows you to work open hand, crimp, all pocket combinations and pinch grips)

Core strength is critical, especially on overhangs

What type of climbing does your friend perform? Bouldering? Sport? Trad? By the way, Horst’s books are available on nicros and you should be able to find several articles by him that pertain to improving climbing performance.

Let me know if you have any specific questions.

Training for Climbing is an excellent book. I highly reccomend it even if you don’t climb. It has a lot of great pull-up variations and grip training ideas.