Nordic Blood: Climbing And Lifting / Lifting And Climbing

I’m just going to assume that I’m taller and I have poor posture :slight_smile:

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Yeah very happy to chat. I do like looking at training and taking what I can from different places.

In terms of injuries, from what you’ve described it might have been a combination of fatigue and unfortunate hold type. Those claw type holds normally either apply a lot of lateral force to one finger or have an edge that concentrates all the pressure on one spot of connective tissue. From what I remember, connective tissue is about 6 weeks behind muscle in terms of strength building. In many sports including barbell this is rarely an issue but in climbing it’s definitely a factor especially when you put in one last climb out try to peak for a route.

One of things that’s disappeared with modern climbing is the apprenticeship. People used to take years in the mountains slowly moving up the grades. Combine that with a working class job and those guys had hands like old leather. I used to be in a climbing club with some old timers. Their fingers where like packs of old sausages.

Btw one last climb is like one last run in skiing. It’s where the danger is. Seen it so many times.

Sounds like upping grip strength in a safe manner is the priority. Probably several ways to attack this, leading, moon boards and hang boards. With your current injury I’ll probably stay with routes where your injury is helped. Indoors you can have your good hand on poor holds and have your injured hand using jugs etc.

I’ve never liked mixing grip training with pull ups. Always felt weird like I needed to focus on one or the other. Saw a video by an Italian physio explains why crimps and pull ups caused injuries. Something about how our elbows have evolved to hold weight at our waist for carrying.

Yeah I’m not entirely confused by the second one. The first one was very unexpected though.

So taking a break from climbing or scheduling easy climbs every 6 weeks makes sense?

My grandfather was a farrier (person that sets horse shoes). His hand strength was legend. As an offside tangent I think it’s a net negative that apprenticeship has become so uncommon nowadays. Many professions, at least in my country, is taught in an academic sense at a university level (rock climbing guides being an exception) and then you get a job but the first years are always… shoddy anyway. But now you have student loans to pay back. Might be safer in the sense that you won’t accidentally apprentice under someone that sucks ass, but nevertheless I wish it was at the very least a maintained path into the work force. Nothing against education, just have both. Not everyone does well in a higher education setting.

Too unfamiliar with skiing to comprehend this. You mean offpist downhill?

This is very true, I’m going outdoors again this weekend but I’ve been preferential to indoors this entire season for this very reason as I can scope out from the ground if there’s even a reason to attempt a send

You wouldn’t happen to have a link?

@dagill2 Direct forearm work, as you mentioned, is so subpar to climbing:

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I’m frankly more impressed with the arm strength than the grip. I’ve definitely used far smaller crimps than that for pullups, but only ever achieved one single armed pull up.

I know those hangboards come with insets so I have no idea what edge width that is so I won’t make any judgement in that regard. I just meant, that is some forearm development right there.

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It’s on a UK bouldering website. Not sure I’m allowed to link but should be very easy to find. It’s got a good forum full of physios and doctors who climb, so diagnosis of injuries is useful.

It’s an idea that when you try to get one last go at an activity, that’s normally when an accident happens.

I’m guessing so? My training was set by UK seasons. Normally bouldered or some sport abroad November to February, then sports routes march to June, trad routes July to September. October off.

By September my fingers felt rested as i going into the mountains rather than cragging.

I’ll have to experiment with deloads when I get back into it as I’ll only be bouldering.

I’ve mentioned on another thread that I had problems with my knuckles that nearly stopped me climbing. After seeing several specialists it was a yoga teacher that fixed it as she had noticed that my fingers didn’t straighten fully in downward facing dog. No blood was getting through properly.

In either case you are shorter than me… manlet!

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I think it’s fine? I just read through the terms of use (again) and that seems like fair play.

Noted, I’ll be mindful of not doing just that then whenever I feel like I’m maybe pushing my luck

That’s super cool. My first injury healed but I had a damaged nerve which some climbing bloke diagnosed. A few days of nerve flossing and full strength was regained.

Thursday 2020-09-17

Committed Week 3, Day 17 #committed2020

Weight: 76.7 kg

Off-day. Was going to play disc golf but my mate was just swamped. Two separate walks with nearby friends. Some errands. A brief stint of handstands as some energetic music came on in my headphones. A 40 minute yoga session to relax (gotten stiff), should do yoga more often.

Now a shower and some sleep.

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I need this stamped on my arms.

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I’ll shamelessly recommend the Down Dog app yet again.

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FWIW, even the free version is worthwhile. I’m convinced one could just rotate those nine sessions and be significantly better off than if one does yoga more as an afterthought.

That’s three different intensity levels
Three different durations (10,12,15 minutes) per intensity level.

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I use an app called Daily Yoga right now and pay for the yearly subscription. It’s like… $12.99 CAD (about 86 SEK) for the year, I think. I’ll check out Down Dog too.

Im intriged. Thanks for the recomendation.

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I’ll try the free trial!

All credit goes to @kleinhound

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I’ve recently become able to bench with my BW. If it weren’t for the comitted challenge I’d love to stay on that weight until I do it for 15 reps.

Another training ADD thought is I’d really like to do Görner Deadlifts now that my finger feels good enough. Like, a 4 day U/L split,

Day 1. Press
Day 2. Back squat
Day 3. Bench
Day 4. Front Squat and Görner Deadlifts


Another ADD thought, as I recently remarked in a thread, is that I as a teen reached at least my current squat strength on Stronglifts (linear progression). It’d be interesting to attempt GZCL which is very similar to how I did double-progression after Nutty’s but having a higher training intensity on the main lifts.

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For reasons, I’d like to change my username. I imagine the people that read this log are the only people that’d be directly affected. I don’t really have any suggestions of my own that I’m particularly affectionate towards so I won’t do a poll with options.

But to offer some suggestions (but am welcoming of outside input)

DeadLock
Mutex
Victory
dontpushthebutton

Sorry for the inconvenience.

@anna_5588 @dagill2 @aldebaran @danteism