Some thoughts. My shoulder is starting to do that popping thing when there is a bit too much horizontal pressing going on in relation to vertical pressing. Coincidentally, this has been the week when I’ve done the least amount of handstand work. I’ve also widened my grip on the bench slightly and felt a lot more stable. When I say popping I mean that it’ll, in day-to-day-life, get kind of… stuck on itself and then “pop” loose. I don’t want to know what that’ll turn in to if I just ignore it.
As a pre-emptive measure I feel it’d be best to, after my next week of “bodybuilding” (poomp the mooscles), not do a flat bench 3x/wk. Given that my long head of the triceps is a perpetual weak point I believe that I’ll do a push press on my isometric day (pause above head, pause at nose). On eccentric day, I’m thinking a smith incline with limited ROM á la Meadows,
Not including any squat variations (yet), but I’ll do one more change with regards to how I’ve been doing things these last three weeks and that is that I’ll only do the conventional deadlift 1x/wk as I feel like I have my positions pretty well figured out on it now. The other two sessions, the tempo sessions, will be Romanian deadlifts. RDLs will lend itself better to the tempo work that I’m doing anyway IMHO.
Hm okay since you can connect it to something you’ve changed in training, it’s probably worth paying attention to. If it was just audible and a very mild sensation my advice would’ve been to ignore it.
No idea where I got this idea from originally, but I’ve used these a fair bit before, they’re awesome to get a good pump on.
This feels like something that could easily be added to my push press days. At the minute I just hold the lockout for about 5s, but pauses definitely sound like there would be carryover to strict pressing. Thanks.
I’ve done this before and it’s great, especially with the push press, because you get a very tactile sense of where you want to be when the bar goes up on a strict press. Hold it wrong and it just becomes such a tell-tale that your positioning is bad.
Climbing coach, give me all your sport climbing knowledge!
I’ve been climbing for 1.5-2 years. Whenever I start sending 7a’s is when I tend to suffer a pulley injury. I’ve had two injuries thus far, one in each hand. Ring finger both times. First one took 4 months to heal, the second one is still healing (~4 months and counting).
Recently, I’ve adopted a submax approach to climbing and started doing a lot of volume on grades 6a-6c, with the occassional push into 7a and this seems to be treating me a lot better.
Primary interest is sport climbing, secondary interest is bouldering. Want to improve both. Settled for climbing twice weekly, as that seems to reduce my injury rate. Another recent inclusion as to how I approach climbing is “deloading” every 6-7 weeks and not climb at all. That’s seemed promising. Thinking about climbing 3x/wk and deload more often, say every 5-6 weeks.
I prefer to lift 4x/wk, if I could stomach lifting less I’d maybe climb in a 2-on-1-off schedule. But, if you had three weekly climbing sessions how would you approach that? 2x lead, 1x bouldering?
Note: I’ve not done any hangboard training, that’s not the way I’ve been fucking up my pulleys.
Was a coach, and this was before coaching badges existed in the UK. I used to have to steal coaching models from FA training (soccer) just to have something to work with. When I started climbing in Sheffield, campus boards where being used a lot but no injury prevention protocols. Since then climbing coaching has moved on a lot and I’ve fallen behind. Now that my kids are a little older and once covid is a bit more under control I’ll be getting back into it.
From experience, pulley injuries can be caused by all sorts of things from type of hold to someones feet coming off unexpectedly and then shock loading the hand. Poor footwork leads to a lot of injuries in climbing. Also, did your injuries occur due to a specific situation like pulling on a mono?
How you set up your training depends on what’s holding back your grade move. Endurance, technique or strength?
Campus boards made my elbows creak so I avoided them but hang boards seem to help me avoid injury. Easily controlled, you can choose your hold and keep your position perfect. I like the new beastmaker hang boards, find a comfortable edge and use extra weight rather than a more risky grip. Or use a power endurance protocol, 7 seconds on, 7 seconds off to simulate hard sport routes.
Btw years ago there was a study that concluded that getting strong on slopers increased crimp strength but not vice versa. But then elbows are at more risk on slopers.
I could keep writing so let me know if I’ve been off any use? My area focus was mostly what’s called traditional (trad) climbing in the UK, which was getting scared high above poor gear. Since I became a dad I can’t do it anymore so I’m going to look at bouldering much more.
Use your surroundings. Stand on steps, cases, isometric calf raises and high heels should also be in your repertoire. Alternatively get a step ladder to carry around. If all else fails ask Tom Cruize and Silvester Stalone how they make it so they look like big boys on screen.
I don’t really know anything about the formalia regarding being a climbing coach, I’m just happy to engage in a conversation with anyone that has given climbing any serious thought beyond “this is fun, let’s do it again!”.
The first one was entirely unexpected, happened on the first grip of a route more or less and I suspect was mere overuse. The second one was at the end of a really hard and strenous climb and occured during a very odd claw-like position. This should give you the general idea although the wrist position was different,
I sprained one collateral ligament on the middle finger and injured my pulley on the right finger. I had a sense before I went on the route that I was a bit too fatigued but I expected to take a fall more than expected an injury.
I’m a life-long desk jockey though, so I imagine my hands are rather weak to begin with. And accustomed to typing on a keyboard, not sure what impact that has on hand health but I suppose computer programmers are prone to repetitive stress injuries and I reckon myself not to be an exception.
I’m not sure what’s holding me back at the moment. I haven’t given this any real thought because of actively nursing the latest pulley-injury (April?) so I can’t really approach a route the same way as I would if I were to climb it without injury. So the injury is what has been been holding me back the most. I’ve just been happy to be able to continue climbing albeit somewhat handicapped. If you allow me to think out aloud, here are my thoughts:
Bear in mind, I’ve just regained the ability to crimp. I cannot yet pinch with my left hand.
Endurance, good, adequate to finish the routes that I currently attempt. Very rarely do I pump out. Usually receive compliments on my ability to just work through a crux without having to take a break. While improving here always makes things easier, it’s not a high priority concern.
Technique, my footwork and body-positioning is above average while remaining far from ideal but isn’t in immediate need of addressing. I try to rewatch Neil Greshams Masterclass whenever I feel like I’ve been relying too much on upper-body strength/low bodyweight.
Grip strength, this is my weak point. When I fail a boulder it’s because of this. When I cannot complete a lead route it’s always a grip issue.
What am I doing to address this currently? Well, just about fuck-all? To continue thinking out aloud I’ve noticed that spending time lead-climbing top-rope routes in the gym translates well into improving my hand strength and also since these aren’t on an overhang they tend to demand good technique instead.
On boulders I cannot bat hang for the life of me, but my shoes are partly to blame.
Now might be the time to start fix the grip. I have the Beast Maker 1000 (like) and Beast Maker 2000 (too hard) at home. The 1000 is available at the gym also as are off-brand variants of
I can barely! do pull-ups with one hand on the bar and the other on the dome. Also, I feel my climber’s elbow on my right side when I do this so I’ll save this piece of equipment for later. Occassionally during my gym warm-up I’ll do inverted rows with them (not using the half-dome)
I also have these, when my fingers are all good the idea is inverted rows as part of a warm-up.
I have a pair of fat gripz I could start utilising for pull-up/chin-ups but at the moment I prefer doing that movement as little as possible. Even using rings I aggrevate ye olde elbow.
Lastly, I built myself a pair of claspers that I attach a weight to do train my antagonist muscles as I was inspired by this but it’s not something I’ve done while injured and have instead just used rubber bands and opened my hand.
I find campus boards so boring, I end up just turning it into a pull-up showdown. Hangboards marginally more engaging.
I’ve just done trad climbing once, it’s not for me. I mean, I’ll do it again for sure, but I prefer the pace of sport/bouldering. To put it in lifting terms, I’m more enamored by sets of 4 than sets of 15.
If my hand was up to snuff I’d consider including a weekly moonboarding session but I don’t feel like I’m quite there yet.
Maybe I’ll start with your suggestion of the power endurance protocol. Would you do this before or after a climbing session or on a separate day?
I swear to iron that I once read a suggestion that was “when you walk, go up on your tippy-toes, it’ll create the illusion that you are tall because on average as you move your head is positioned higher”. Dumb. Shit.