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Nordic Blood: Climbing And Lifting / Lifting And Climbing

While what you have written is comforting given my concerns I’m also curious about how the discussion on this topic progressed.

For me, the reason OMT speaks to me is because I’ve received it several times. Specifically I have a rib that wants to elevate from perpetually tight scalenes. If I’m unlucky, I can hear it move back up and feel a clunk as I leave the PT office.

And I’ve had other practitioners try and perform the same adjustment and experience that they fail in adjusting the bone.

I’ve seen Kit Laughlins stuff on taking care of hands and feet, and in particular the hands content seem to be about him caring about being able to perform his profession. In fact, I believe that is why I was so antsy to work toward fingertip pushups and went too hard too soon.

@Koestrizer I’d love an email on the topic if you have the energy!

@FlatsFarmer Wow, I did not expect you to write everything out for me. I appreciate it though! I’ve done a lot of scapular push-ups and pull-ups. I’ve never felt any clunks or hitches on scapular push-ups, but I’ve always felt disappointed with how little retraction I have. I have a strong protraction.

I recall my teen years reading that a person should be able to pinch a pen between their shoulderplades and I’m not sure I can do that nor have I ever been able to.

I’ll revisit the motion today!

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I forgot a note on this training session that I really wanted to share.

I tried doing shoulder dislocates/inlocates after my BPAs and stopped because it was so good at trapping blood in the muscles that it impacted my recovery between sets. Will try and include it between DB presses where I care less about performance and more about pump.

I got the idea from the brief stint I had earlier this summer doing only bodyweight stuff hoping my joints would become friendly again wherein all the “strength” elements/movements had integrated mobility exercises slotted as “rest”. There was so much wrong with the program, but I really liked that aspect. Curiously, I found some of the author’s earlier writings and found them to be so much more sensible.

One gripe was the tremendous focus on endurance. For instance, the mastery level for some isometric holds were 5x60s but the rest inbetween those sets were like 10 reps of this integrated mobility thing. Or with reps, 5x15 on some stuff but rest that was less than a minute.

And upon reading the old books sometimes you’d be allowed to progress after being able to hold an eight second hold as long as you could accrue a complete minutes worth of work without failure which takes a lot less time to achieve.

I have read and encountered many different opinions on tendons, and I’m not really sure. My guts would go with high frequency (every day), low to very low intensity, and not forgetting isometrics and eccentrics.

That’s amazing news mate!

Yes, I would agree with that. Either climbing or lifting (or both?) would need to have their volume reduced significantly. You can’t do everything. I love running and collective sports but I have chosen not to do it for years or almost, because destroying further my joints would hurt me more in the long run than it would give me pleasure (as a coach I need to be in top shape and be able to do and show exercises using my legs…)

I sent you an email, mate…

I can sense that @j4gga2’s and my explanations will likely be similar. So give mine a listen and then maybe ask him anything I have left unclear.

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Ditto what @Koestrizer said

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Some articles

5 exercises to improve scapular stabilization and prevent elbow, wrist and hand pain.- Physio Logic

Utilizing Scapular Stabilization Exercises in a patient with medial epicondylaglia: a case report. JOSPT Cases

Getting rid of elbow pain is all about Scapula Stability. No regrets personal training.

Shoulder Strengthening Exercises for Elbow Pain. BSR Physical Therapy

Middle and lower trapezius strengthening for the management of lateral epicondylaglia: a case report

Case reports…

I’m not suggesting scapular management couldn’t elbow elbow pain, but I am saying that you cannot without any certainty say that it is, especially without assessing the other biomechanical, lifestyle and psychological factors that can contribute.

This article gives a better, wide-lens look at lateral elbow tendinopathy. Unfortunately no sinilar document exists for medial elbow tendinopathy. Admittedly, this is also a clinical commentary article, not a systematic review or consuses statement.

https://www.jospt.org/doi/full/10.2519/jospt.2015.5841

Given the advice of grabbing the shit out of anything whenever in the gym for irradiation purposes and the number of muscles that attach at the common flexor tendon,

  • the flexor carpi ulnaris,
  • palmaris longus,
  • flexor carpi radialis,
  • pronator teres,
  • and flexor digitorum superficialis.

+ that I climb + and enjoy to practice handbalancing sometimes I’m not surprised that I have the issues I have. And the first flare-up was in response to a spike in volume and I was narrow-minded in thinking it was another one of those pains that goes away if you just keep throwing the kitchen sink at it I’m not surprised I have problems still.

Regardless of load management at the hands was at fault, my shoulders need love anyway.

Thursday 2021-09-09

Conditioning

2 rounds
10 KB swings w 24kg
2 chair dips
15 KB swings (same weight)
3 chair dips
25 KB swings
5 chair dips
50 KB swings

Friday 2021-09-10

Sumo deadlift, some
Deadlift, some
Front squats ramp to 3@80 3 sets of 5-6 reps @ 72
Chest supported DB Row 4x15 w 15/h (ss: RDL 4x8@80)

3xAMRAP hip thrust @ 60

10 minutes alternating AMRAP between “isolinear hack squat” and ab-wheel

Was in a mad hurry to make an appointment.

I’ve hit 3@80 now twice, so I’ll bump that weight and I hit my target reps for my back-off sets too so I feel good about progressing.

I’m working up to a 1-3RM and then doing back-off sets at 90% of that weight for three sets of 3-5 reps.

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Realising that chair dips might not have meant dips between the backs of two chairs but that is what I did

Saturday 2021-09-11

Outdoor climbing, opened a route in pitch black with a forehead lamp. It is really hard to see where to place your feet when the lamp is casting so much shadows. It was fun though, almost a different activity entirely. Finished a route I previously had not clipped anchors on, but it did hurt a bit getting there.

Sunday 2021-09-12

Military Press 5x6 @ 42 kilos, ss BPAs / Face pulls
Savickas DB Press (didn’t have a bench) 4x8 @ 15 kilos / hand, ss BPAs / Face pulls

Tried every iso-lateral vertical rowing machine I found, none really let me perform the motion without pain in my elbow despite using straps. Somewhere around 4 total work sets

Seated biceps curls, 2 sets and one drop set.

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Tuesday 2021-09-14

Sumo deadlift, I guess 3 or 5 reps @ 40, 60, 80, 90
Deadlift, some reps at 90
Front Squat, ramp to 1 @ 85, three back-off sets of 3 reps @ 75 [0]
SSB 4, 6 (belt), 4, 5 @ 80, the belt did nothing for me. [1]
Isometric-dynamic contrast cable row @ 35, 45, 35. 3x7

By now I was starting to zone out. The screen on my phone is cracked so I don’t log as I go and well, I’m a bit unsure around some details of what happened next
4-5 sets of GHRs, around 50 reps

10 minutes of ab-wheel
20, 10, 8 or 0? (not sure if that set happened or not), 6, 5-6???, ~5, 2, 2
50-59 reps total.


[0] Tried some standing ab-wheels with a band too, they are oddly tough but intuitively I feel as if a ramp would be better. Did something like 5, 3, 1 reps and then no more
[1] Need to learn more about this movement

Now with the SSB and trap-bar I have everything I need to do a 3x/wk + gap-workout OCTS thing that I’ve done in the past but I’m making progress on things still. I will however include the SSB and trap-bar in my workouts and build those lifts in the interim.

I love how the SSB targets a “new” portion of my back.


Hangboarding, 3 finger drag with -24 kilos (notice the minus). 3 sets of 30s.
Forearm stuff, reverse tyler twists until the pain went away, then one or two sets of wrist curls because that still hurt.

I would do a four finger open hand but my pinkies are so short that puts my other fingers in half-crimp mode. Oddly, I tried a two-finger pocket without my ring finger and I felt stronger like that without my ring fingers. They sure are beat up.

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From when I was rigging. The forty kilos on the ground were enough to suspend me entirely. Friction is cool.

2021-09-15

Conditioning
50 turkish get-ups w 8.5kg DB
25 burpees

Tried following a workout that went 5 burpees every 3 minutes but my screen kept locking and it was just a hassle. Did 10 TGUs in ~3 minutes so I interlaced burpees every 10 TGUs instead. Total time: 18:38

Also spent some time on my inlines today, as I never did any skating during the summer at all so have to do it before too many leaves fall. Same goes for my skateboard (haven’t spent any time on that yet).

Biking to and from work. As per usual. Morning walk. As per usual. Although these routines went sideways during summer I feel as if I’ve revived them now.

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Banded ab wheel is interesting.

Yes, I’m not convinced it works as well as other options but I’m not going to bring a plank to the gym

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2021-09-16

Deadlift ramping thing again

Military press 4x8 @ 42, that was the top-end of my range so 4x6-8 @ 45 coming up next.
Seated Savickas DB Press 4x10 @ 15/h, I wonder how far I want to push the reps on this one. 15?
Straight Arm Lat Pulldown 3-4 sets, one was a 6-8-10+ dropset This left my elbow alone. Normal lat pulldowns did not today.

Some BPAs spread inbetween pressing

This complex for 3 rounds, twice with a 20kg barbell, once with a lighter barbell

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Friday 2021-09-17

Hangboarding Session 2 (Pulley Rehab)
4x30s 3 finger drag
2min rest.
20 millimetre edge.
-24kg.

Plan on doing twelve of these (2-3/wk) sessions before progressing. If there is no increase in pain I’ll try and progress 2.5lbs/wk as per the book Climb Injury-Free.

The progression after those sessions is 2 weekly sessions with the same grip type, and include the half-crimp grip. If memory serves we are talking 3 sets per grip for a 7 second hold.

And there are an additional two levels of progression thereafter.


Bouldering for about 1 hour


Forearm stuff. 3x30-50 wrist curls, DB supination/pronation (no pain), finger rolls.

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Hej, min vän. Hope things are going alright.

There was a video that I think you posted a while ago outlining heavy rowing variations, but I cannot for the life of me find it. Any idea what I’m talking about?

No clue. Could it have been this?

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