T Nation

New Formal Wear Thread


This thread is simple. Many of us will need to get a suit or dinner jacket (read: Tux for the Americans) at some point in our lives. Some of us need them every day.

If you’re like me (and I’m not even that big in comparison to some of you) it’s quasi impossible to find a suit that will fit my chest and not make me look like a “drowned rat” at the waist level. Even if I do, then it’s most likely that my quads won’t fit in the trousers unless the waist size is way too big.

I remember there being a thread on this a while ago but in order to keep up-to-date with the options out there I started a new one.

Focus: Anyone know of or have experience with places that provide good suits/tailored service that is a decent value for money?

or

Do you have any tips/advice you may have picked up in the past?

In the past I found the largest Zara suits to quit quiet well jacket wise (size 46 or 48) and then I got the trousers that were size 36 slightly adjusted for length and waist.

Massimo Dutti have good options but they’re a bit to flabby at the waist.

Armani: Very good but also pretty expensive.

Recently I’ve heard of Asuitthatfits.com

Take your measurments and for £150 you can get a tailored suit. Pretty good!

I had to stock up on tailored suits when I was in Korea (very inexpensive and very nice, quality work … unfortunately for me they no longer fit).

I’d suggest going somewhere to have them professional take your measurements and use that for asuitthatfits.com … ie get measured specifically for the suit.

[quote]polo77j wrote:
I had to stock up on tailored suits when I was in Korea (very inexpensive and very nice, quality work … unfortunately for me they no longer fit).

I’d suggest going somewhere to have them professional take your measurements and use that for asuitthatfits.com … ie get measured specifically for the suit.[/quote]

Korea? Interesting.

I got a tailored suit once then went to China and told a cheap tailor: Copy this suit in 3 fabrics. The total amount I had to pay was 50% of the original suit. Great deal! Unfortunately, they are now to small. Damn.

Yea. I was in korea like 3 or 4 years ago … Pretty much the same experience as you in China.

Although I have no experience with getting stuff tailored, I really think this is the way to go with some decent size.

It just looks better, and thats what its usually all about when wearing a suit, looks.

Doesn’t sound like tailored is really any more expensive(although I have no doubt it can be).

If you have an “irregular” build (ie: not built like a square) its best to go tailored. Some OTR stuff can fit, often by Italian designers, but most of it doesn’t cater to the athletic/muscular builds.

Go to a decent tailor in person…I’m skeptical of these sites where you send in your measurements, simply because it is very difficult to take consistent measurements of yourself. A good tailor will take a month at the absolute minimum to make your suit…you should be called in for at least two re-fittings. Spend the money and you’ll get a suit that will last you a long time.

A huge consideration is the fabric you choose. If you’re going to be using it for work you’ll want something durable that can stand up to wear and tear. When you go in to look at the fabrics you’ll see numbers after each one, like “Super 140’s”, “120’s” and “180’s”. These refer to how many times a braid of wool is spun before being sewn into the fabric. Generally, the high numbers (>160) are more expensive and less durable. When you see Hollywood stars at award shows they’re often wearing 200 or 220 spins…they look awesome but last a very short time.

You look like a big guy, so you might tell your tailor to sew extra fabric between the legs. The pants of a suit are the first thing to go, and if you have big quads you’ll literally burn a hole in the crotch by walking. Having fabric sewn in will stop this, or some people opt for a “two pants suit” where the tailor makes an additional pair for a fee.

There are lots of good tailors in Korea, Hong Kong ($$$) and especially Vietnam, if you ever travel. These guys usually do a good job, except they always put in too much shoulder padding. It looks fine on a skinny asian guy but with shoulders like yours you’ll look like a Dick Tracy villain. Make sure to tell them to hold back on it.

I work in an industry where business dress is emphasized, so I know a good amount about suits (my closet almost looks like Patrick Bateman’s from American Psycho). If you have any other questions feel free to ask

[quote]PimpBot5000 wrote:
If you have an “irregular” build (ie: not built like a square) its best to go tailored. Some OTR stuff can fit, often by Italian designers, but most of it doesn’t cater to the athletic/muscular builds.

Go to a decent tailor in person…I’m skeptical of these sites where you send in your measurements, simply because it is very difficult to take consistent measurements of yourself. A good tailor will take a month at the absolute minimum to make your suit…you should be called in for at least two re-fittings. Spend the money and you’ll get a suit that will last you a long time.

A huge consideration is the fabric you choose. If you’re going to be using it for work you’ll want something durable that can stand up to wear and tear. When you go in to look at the fabrics you’ll see numbers after each one, like “Super 140’s”, “120’s” and “180’s”. These refer to how many times a braid of wool is spun before being sewn into the fabric. Generally, the high numbers (>160) are more expensive and less durable. When you see Hollywood stars at award shows they’re often wearing 200 or 220 spins…they look awesome but last a very short time.

You look like a big guy, so you might tell your tailor to sew extra fabric between the legs. The pants of a suit are the first thing to go, and if you have big quads you’ll literally burn a hole in the crotch by walking. Having fabric sewn in will stop this, or some people opt for a “two pants suit” where the tailor makes an additional pair for a fee.

There are lots of good tailors in Korea, Hong Kong ($$$) and especially Vietnam, if you ever travel. These guys usually do a good job, except they always put in too much shoulder padding. It looks fine on a skinny asian guy but with shoulders like yours you’ll look like a Dick Tracy villain. Make sure to tell them to hold back on it.

I work in an industry where business dress is emphasized, so I know a good amount about suits (my closet almost looks like Patrick Bateman’s from American Psycho). If you have any other questions feel free to ask[/quote]

So I have a question: When you were chasing the hooker through the hallway with a chainsaw, what kind of sneakers were you wearing? And did you get your underwear at K-Mart?

[quote]polo77j wrote:
So I have a question: When you were chasing the hooker through the hallway with a chainsaw, what kind of sneakers were you wearing? And did you get your underwear at K-Mart? [/quote]

1.) Reebok
2.) No, Brooks Brothers

[quote]PimpBot5000 wrote:
If you have an “irregular” build (ie: not built like a square) its best to go tailored. Some OTR stuff can fit, often by Italian designers, but most of it doesn’t cater to the athletic/muscular builds.

Go to a decent tailor in person…I’m skeptical of these sites where you send in your measurements, simply because it is very difficult to take consistent measurements of yourself. A good tailor will take a month at the absolute minimum to make your suit…you should be called in for at least two re-fittings. Spend the money and you’ll get a suit that will last you a long time.

A huge consideration is the fabric you choose. If you’re going to be using it for work you’ll want something durable that can stand up to wear and tear. When you go in to look at the fabrics you’ll see numbers after each one, like “Super 140’s”, “120’s” and “180’s”. These refer to how many times a braid of wool is spun before being sewn into the fabric. Generally, the high numbers (>160) are more expensive and less durable. When you see Hollywood stars at award shows they’re often wearing 200 or 220 spins…they look awesome but last a very short time.

You look like a big guy, so you might tell your tailor to sew extra fabric between the legs. The pants of a suit are the first thing to go, and if you have big quads you’ll literally burn a hole in the crotch by walking. Having fabric sewn in will stop this, or some people opt for a “two pants suit” where the tailor makes an additional pair for a fee.

There are lots of good tailors in Korea, Hong Kong ($$$) and especially Vietnam, if you ever travel. These guys usually do a good job, except they always put in too much shoulder padding. It looks fine on a skinny asian guy but with shoulders like yours you’ll look like a Dick Tracy villain. Make sure to tell them to hold back on it.

I work in an industry where business dress is emphasized, so I know a good amount about suits (my closet almost looks like Patrick Bateman’s from American Psycho). If you have any other questions feel free to ask[/quote]

Haha thanks a lot for the advice. Most of my spins are super 120’s or 140’s.

VERY BIG THANK YOU for your tip about extra fabric. I figured this out the hardway, within a few weeks there’s already visible deterioration (or a hole lol). I got a tailor to add in some sort of silk covering (so no friction).

[quote]PimpBot5000 wrote:
polo77j wrote:
So I have a question: When you were chasing the hooker through the hallway with a chainsaw, what kind of sneakers were you wearing? And did you get your underwear at K-Mart?

1.) Reebok
2.) No, Brooks Brothers

[/quote]

Thanks … needed to settle a bet … I lost

[quote]polo77j wrote:

Thanks … needed to settle a bet … I lost[/quote]

The frightened prostitute lost too

I have a question a two-parter. Now are rounded collars too dressy or too casual? Part two,which tie knot looks best with them?

[quote]PimpBot5000 wrote:
polo77j wrote:

Thanks … needed to settle a bet … I lost

The frightened prostitute lost too[/quote]

You know how some people say “a loss is a loss”? Well, here’s a blaring example of how there are different levels of losing. She lost much, much worse.

Find a reputable seamstress in your neighborhood. The best suit you can buy is handmade to your own body shape. You might even be able to pick out your own material and style that you want. Bada-bing!

They would probably do it for a reasonable cash price, too.

lol@ me looking like the guy in the picture

i need to get some nice formal wear cause i cant get into the Monaco casino without it…

1 buttons are in

btw

Some rules to consider…

The jacket should always fit the shoulders, everything else can be modified around that. Don’t buy a size that needs too many adjustments either up or down, you completely ruin the shape of the garment. Most of the European made suits are workout friendly for men, meaning they have a more athletic cut with the waist being tapered.

Was just going to post a new thread about this! thanks for the advice guys.

I have an interview on Monday so it’s too late for that, I’ll just wear the non-tailored suit I have which is nice enough but very tight around the shoulders.

In future though, I’m tempted to pay for a proper tailor-made suit.
I haven’t worked out for 16 years to look like I’m drowning in a suit or bursting out of it!

Mens Wearhouse…

Huge selection, great staff, works with you till you’re satisfied.

It’s the only place I go for suits and dress clothes. They are pricey though, they are pricey and they know it. But they do have sales, and again the staff is typically great to work with and they’re good at little things like finding matching ties, etc.

Casual Male XL does have stuff, true. And it’s weird to go in and get something OTR and have it feel big or too roomy (my chest is 54), but their selection blows in comparison to MW. There was one occasion where I was wearing a suit from MW and I sat in a chair, ripping the the side pocket open at the seam. MW couldn’t fix it (fabric frayed too much) so they took my jacket toward their suit donation program and knocked a big chunk of change off my next suit.

One fashion tip for the guys that look more wide than tall:

Don’t get your slacks cuffed. No matter what they tell you about cuffs looking better with pleats make sure they don’t do it. It looks cleaner and makes you look longer without the cuffs.

i honestly have not read this whole thing, but theres a wearhouse type place in illinois (i dont know if theyre are located elsewhere) called syms who have well priced suits, sport coats whatever you need and will measure you and do the tailoring for a decent price. They are usually running deals buy one get the other X% off dadada. But getting them tailored is the only way to go if you really want it to look good. And if you are wanting to get a suit that looks that good paying a little extra to make it happen is not a bad idea.