T Nation

Forearms and Finger Strength For Climbing?

So look, I am trying to figure out how to maintain my forearms muscles and finger strength. I moved to the UAE for business and skipped like three weeks of training ( I am into bouldering and rock climbing). So, my question is if you know how to keep your body ready for the new routes, but at home. Thought of ordering hangboard or something like that

The hangboard would be good but probably not long enough to give a good forearm workout.

Maybe try climbing a thick rope.

Hangboard would certainly help, especially doing active movements on it to simulate the climbing experience rather than just static hangs (which of course have their own value). Are there no rocks in the UAE? Just go do some real bouldering?

This was my initial thoughts.

I used to train a lot on campus boards if that’s an option (unlikely). Or I guess hang boards would work, but I’ve never really used them much.

Less climbers on here than there used to be (@Ecchastang springs to mind, just trying a little necro magic), but @shralpinist might have some insights.

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Men I told there is no time right now. New school for the kid, new kindergarten for another one, job, etc. Arms are itching already. Guess will buy one of these outdoorsly.org/best-hangboard/

Nah, there was no mention of time constraints in your initial post dude. Regardless, the hangboard will be your most convenient option. I’ve got a Metolius one and it’s perfectly fine.

Adjustable hand grips and finger lifts which can be done with books.

You can also try ringing a wet towel for forearm development.

If you have a park with bars near you, you could stop there at lunch and do a hanging grip routine.

If you have a dumbbell, you can buy beast grips and do farmer’s carry.

Hangboards are OK for maintenance of finger strength. Do you have time for other training in genereal? Can you get to a gym? Pull-ups, rows, deadlifts, etc. will all make you a better climber.

You can always add rope/towel pull-ups or use Fat Gripz for extra grip work, or do CT’s pinch-grip deadlift (search T-nation). I’ve never done any of that stuff because I’m always climbing but I’m sure it would help.

What level are you climbing at the moment? I only ask to get a sense of your current fitness, and because it might not even be finger strength that you need to focus on right now.

I believe ive read @thefourthruffian might know someone who knows a thing or two about what youre looking for, correct me if im wrong…

Yeah, I can help.

The biggest recommend securing nailing a one inch (or shallower – wife uses a 1/2 inch) board to a rafter (or even above a door) and doing pull ups. Supports in our basement by the laundry have these at different heights. She does a pull up every time she walks by.

Suitcase carries are also helpful for general grip strength.

We also have a rope she climbs after a work out as a finisher, or if it’s cold outside (we live in the mountains), she’ll pull our prowler across the basement in different ways (sometimes staying in place and pulling it to her, sometimes dragging it).

I do all of the same as she does, but not like her. Power to weight ratio is amazing.

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Hangboards can help increase strength. I’ve used beastmaker boards in the past and they are excellent. The texture doesn’t wear down or nip your skin. The hard holds aren’t painful. Need the 1000 for chins, get the 2000 if you climb hard and already have something to chin off.

There’s an exercise you can do hangboards called repeaters which is basically 7 seconds on, 7 seconds off, repeat. Good for anaerobic endurance/pump. Check out the beastmaker website.

The other ideas of rope climbs, prowler pulls etc are good. But also check out other training tips from the pros, for example Shauna coxsey seems to do overhead squats, I guess for shoulder and core stability.

You can build your own claspers pretty easily, get a few pieces of wood and drill a few holes in them. Sand down the edges. Run a piece of paracord through and sling around a pull-up bar.

These have the added benefit of being possible to load with plates and then you just hold the pinch kind of like what is done here https://youtu.be/eiOp3hxJVkw?t=280

If you have a place for the beastmaker or a similar board, great. If you want something that’s portable and modular these boards by problemsolver are awesome https://www.problemsolver.rocks/shop

Well, he asked about forearm and grip strength.

FWIW, my wife prefers single leg exercises over two legged squats (so lunges, one legged deadlifts, Bulgarian squats, whatever) because you seldom get to use both legs. She’ll even do box jumps one legged.

Lots of one armed push ups with one armed rows, as well.

Hanging leg lift.

And then there is a whole host things done on the rings, including the iron cross (which I can barely do).

The pull up, in all variations, however, remains the king.