T Nation

Finger exercises

As an avid rock climber I was wondering if anyone knows any good finger strengthing exercises? More specifically, I am not necessarily looking for forarm exercises, but finger exercises-any climbers out there can tell you there is a BIG difference, but since there is a corrilation I’d really appricaite any exercises.

Check out these two links for specific training tools.

You may also want to check out Brookfields book on Mastery of Hand Strength.

You might also want to try one of those finger strengtheners that guitar players use. Also Bruce Lee training books have some really good finger strength drills.

Metolius has some good info on campus board and fingerboard training. If you have a membership to a climbing gym they will likely have these boards. Also if you (or a friend) get’s Climbing magazine check out “No Excuses: Fingerboard workouts that don’t cramp your style,” Training, Issue 159, page 150.

Do finger pushups with a progression towards doing them with fewer and fewer fingers!

Go to ironmind.com they make the captains of cruch grippers, but they also have tons of stuff for strengthening the hand and fingers.

One of the clients I work with is an avid rock climber - he put a 2ft length of wood on a wall, and did pull ups using his fingerstips. Start of with a full hand over the edge, then mark that point and bring the fingers back a bit every time. He did this 3 days a week. When you can do 12/15 reps, go down to 3 fingers and start at the top again, and so on until you are down to just 2 fingers for 20+reps, as my guy can now do(have seen it, mad)Static/isometric hold work well too. Good luck!

Checkout some Ironmind products. They have a lot of finger and forearm excercise equipment.

Take two dumbells (as heavy as you can go, let them hang at your sides. Then let them roll to the ends of your fingers and curl them back up. Squeeze the handles at the top and repeat until failure. These are basically finger curls. They also works the forearms but it’s real good for hand/finger strength.

Here’s a good one I read about years ago: get a bucket and some sand. Add some water to the sand and stick your hand in it. Open and close your hand and move your fingers all around. This should do the trick.

Get a girlfriend with some serious issues and sex drive. Haaa haaa. That will at least increase dexterity.

Thanks guys, I really appriciated it.

Try the “rice dig”. Fill a bucket with rice, dry, uncooked. Stick one hand in the bucket with the rice and dig with your fingers: open and close your hand, flex your fingers, scoop to the bottom, etc. When one hand is tired, and you’ll know when, do the same with the other hand. Repeat about 3 times for each hand. Do this a couple to three times per week. This is similar to the sand bucket listed above, but a little less messy. You can sit with your bucket while watching TV, reading the paper, etc. Just don’t leave it around where your animals could get into it. One of my dogs thought it was a special treat just for him!!