So I'm looking into getting into climbing recreationally (have done some in the past). I'm willing to spend money for quality and comfort, but I don't need anything super fancy, as this will still only be a hobby.
So...what is the best brand/style of shoe for general bouldering/climbing?
I have 5.10 Coyotes that I bought at Sport Chalet. They're entry level lace-ups, but you can also use slip-ons and velcro. I'm also new to it but it's probably safe to assume that the lace models are more secure. You'll want to try them on in person because the brands all fit slightly differently. I wear a 13 in running shoes but I found size 12 fit best in 5.10. There are people out there who say to squash your foot into something 2 or 3 sizes smaller than what fits you which is just preposterous. Also, if the upper is dyed leather your feet will be dyed whatever color the shoe is the first few times you wear them.
La Sportiva, Mad Rock, 5.10, evolv, scarpa and acopa are all good brands.
Don't get some super uncomfortable shoe for a beginner
best imo sportiva or 5.10. They also cost the most.
Lace ups are a pain the ass imo.
squashing your toes is necessary for sending hard shit.
If your new to climbing take these rules to heart.
Rule #1 Dont fuck up and die.
Rule #2 Dont take anyone with you.
I know it sounds harsh, but Ive had friends and acquittances die from climbing accidents.
The Evolv Defy are pretty good beginning shoes, decent build, not too expensive. These are what I got when I started last summer. You might be able to find a pair on Craigslist (I saw some on there when I was looking). I got mine from a sports store on a pretty good discount, I think my pair was ~$60.
And they're velcro for easy-on, easy-off.
And make sure you do try them on. I swear, my feet are at least half a size different from each other, and when you're wearing shoes as tight as climbing shoes, its very noticeable.
Found an Evolv Predator G2 shoe that is my size on Craigslist. Quality shoe? It is being offered for $85 because supposedly it doesn't fit.
Your size or you think its your size? Climbing shoes are super tight. I went to a couple of stores and tried on several different models to make sure I knew what size I actually needed before I started looking at prices.
There's a reason its for sale because it doesn't fit. Don't let it happen to you too.
As for quality? Evolv is a pretty well-respected climbing shoe company. I can't speak for that particular model, but it looks pretty similar to the Defy's that I have, which as a beginner, work just fine for me. A little pricier though, but I guess that just depends on what you want to spend.
I had 5.10 Spires and really liked them.
Not sure if you're also looking at harnesses but I really like Black Diamond's products.
Had all my climbing gear (~$300) in a locker at my university's gym and spaced out about it at the end of the semester...came back for it 2 weeks later and it was cleaned out and no where to be found
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Personally, I'd go with a pair of Velcro shoes. They are much more comfortable for dicking around in a gym, bouldering, and doing short climbs (100' or so), because when you are belaying someone, you can unstrap them and get some breathing room for your feet.
La Sportiva Katana's are pretty sick, so are evolvs. Try to get a pair that don't have a super-agressive (like the La Sportiva Miura's) style.
For fit, go to a store that sells climbing shoes and try on a pair (without socks!) that is a half-size smaller than your regular fit. You want climbing shoes to be tight and almost uncomfortable. I typically wear 1-1.5 sizes smaller than my regular shoes.
Pretty much all thats needed to be said has been; get a good brand, don't start out with an ultra down-curved aggressive style, get them smaller than you think is fun.
While I type this the blisters on my toes are screaming "Nooooooooooo! Get shoes that are comfortable" I tell them to shut up. If the toes don't bend, it's harder to send.
Thats no good. Have you ever been to quartz mountain in OK?
Contacted an old friend who is more into climbing than anyone I know (currently in Japan teaching and climbing). I'll post what he told me for the benefit of others.
I haven't actually...mainly went to a climbing gym downtown. Farthest I've made it west in OK was for repelling in Red Rock Canyon. I've thought about getting back into climbing now that I've graduated and will have a little bit more time/money on my hands.
OP-What size shoe do you wear?
Anyone who wears a size 10 in climbing shoes, I've got a pair of La Sportiva Nagos that I don't wear because they are too big for me.
you should! Ive heard the Wichita wildlife refuge is good. Unfortunately, the closest real climbing from here is about 6hrs in any direction..lol
This. Being able to un-strap them after having your toes crammed for a while is nice, and then you can just cinch them back down and hit another route.
I wear different shoes on each foot, these on the left and a purple lace up 5.10 (I believe) on the right. My climbing partner has messed up feet and so she wears the opposite shoes. We are the same shoe size so I get to look like an idiot with her, for free.