T Nation

Car Audio

actually im starting to think this may be a bigger task than i can handle.

[quote]Split wrote:
actually im starting to think this may be a bigger task than i can handle.[/quote]

Just take your time and think things out. There must be online resources you can use. That combined with the manufacteres instructions shuold be should help. I can understand you not wanting to see a big puff of smoke when ya hook everything up.

[quote]Split wrote:
also my speakers are already installed, just need to wire the amps and such as well as install the subs, and this here is where the real difficulty lies.[/quote]

it’s not all that hard. i learned how to do it by always watching the stereo shop guys while they installed.i would get to know them and help out after a while. like i said i have had systems in my car since around 1997, thats not terribly long but i’m 24 so it’s been a while. one tip i can offer you, that i learned the hard way. you will need to run the power and remote wires on the opposite side of the body from the rca and speaker wires.

if you have the space i would recomend usin some type of insulation tubing on the rca and speaker wires when running them. i used foam pipe insulation once the wires came out from the sill panels and behind the rear seats, all the way to the amps.this will eliminate all the interferance if your lucky. you won’t have that annoying whine in the speakers when you hit the gas.what kind of truck do you have?

[quote]mazilla wrote:
Split wrote:
also my speakers are already installed, just need to wire the amps and such as well as install the subs, and this here is where the real difficulty lies.

it’s not all that hard. i learned how to do it by always watching the stereo shop guys while they installed.i would get to know them and help out after a while. like i said i have had systems in my car since around 1997, thats not terribly long but i’m 24 so it’s been a while. one tip i can offer you, that i learned the hard way. you will need to run the power and remote wires on the opposite side of the body from the rca and speaker wires.

if you have the space i would recomend usin some type of insulation tubing on the rca and speaker wires when running them. i used foam pipe insulation once the wires came out from the sill panels and behind the rear seats, all the way to the amps.this will eliminate all the interferance if your lucky. you won’t have that annoying whine in the speakers when you hit the gas.what kind of truck do you have?[/quote]

Good point, all wiring will generate a magnetic field around it when a current is run through it. Just like when ya wrap a wire around a nail and hook it to a battery, instant magnet. If you run the signal cable, even though it’s shielded, beside a unshielded power cable cable it induce a current in the signal cable due to the strong magnetic field around the power cable.

You don’t need that much seperation, even an inch the whole run will do. Of cours only do that if you have to, like mazilla said run em on oppostie sides.

I don’t know what you plan on doing for grounding and I haven’t really followed car audio that much in the last few years, but the best system used to be Star Grounding, basically that means all the amps should be grounded at the same point, preferably with a distribution box. You may well be doing that now.

well i think i have a handle on most of it, however wiring the speakers still eludes me. I should be able to wire the amps no problem, but the speakers that are already installed and hooked to the deck i have no clue.

[quote]Split wrote:
well i think i have a handle on most of it, however wiring the speakers still eludes me. I should be able to wire the amps no problem, but the speakers that are already installed and hooked to the deck i have no clue.[/quote]

Are you going to continue to run the insatlled speakers from the decks amp, or are you running them from the new amps? I would suggest the latter, then you can just the run line outputs to the respective amps, front to the amps driving the front speakers and rear to rears of course.

If you deck deosn’t have a sub out then you maye be able to just add two y-jacks to rear outputs and send the signal to the sub amps. This will send all frequencies to the sub amps, but the built in x-over should handle that. I assume you have a sub amp with built in x-over.

yea i want to run the speakers to the amp. And my deck does have a sub input. But i will have 1 amp for the speakers and one for the subs. Is this possible? And do i run both amps to the deck?

[quote]Split wrote:
yea i want to run the speakers to the amp. And my deck does have a sub input. But i will have 1 amp for the speakers and one for the subs. Is this possible? And do i run both amps to the deck?[/quote]

What amps do you have? In your post you listed 3 amps and 7 channels between them. Also I need to know where and what role the MB’s are performing, Two in the front doors, two ine the ext cab perhaps? Actually it might be easier to just pm me the details, save taking up space here.

2 MBs in the front 2 in the back, and im not going to use the 22w amp. just the 1000 for the mbs and the 770 for the subs

[quote]Split wrote:
2 MBs in the front 2 in the back, and im not going to use the 22w amp. just the 1000 for the mbs and the 770 for the subs[/quote]

Ok, well I dunno if the 770 will have enough juice to drive the subs. I’m assuming the subs are 4ohm impedance. That means hooking them in parallel as mazilla said. Do you understand a parallel hook up? If they are 4ohms that will give you 2 ohms and that’s tricky load to drive with two drivers per side.

It may mean blowing output fuses,it may not, depends on the amp. The advantage being that 4 subs don’t have to work as hard or being driven as much to produce the same voulume as 2. Let me know the impedance.

If you do it this way, take the sub output from the deck, run it to the amp, add a y-connector at the amp and feed both channels. Hook the subs up as mentioned above.

Run the front outputs of the deck to one set of inputs on the 4 channel amp and hook those to the front MBs. The rear output goes to the other two channels and the rear MBs.

The other option if your deck allows is to use the decks amp to drive the front MBs, send the rear output to the 770 to drive the rear MBs, send the sub output to the 4 channels of the using a 4 way splitter or equivalent and drvie each sub with one cahnnel. The front MBs being much closer won’t need as much power to drive them but it likely won’t be as clean and clear as using the 4 channel.

This would be less preferred in my opinion. Also keep in mind that the 4MBs will provide a fair amount of mid-upper bass to help support the low end. However bas signals tend to draw a lot of current. I think your hookup plan will work and at the worst you may blow some fuses in the 770 and have to reconfigure using the deck or buy another 2 channel if you can’t trade in 770 towards another 4 channnel.

I think you may have a fair amount of tuning to do as well due to the amount of low to mid drivers you have compared to mid top, your system may well be bottom heavy, but that’s up to you, a good EQ might be in order.

[quote]pbody03 wrote:
Split wrote:
2 MBs in the front 2 in the back, and im not going to use the 22w amp. just the 1000 for the mbs and the 770 for the subs

Ok, well I dunno if the 770 will have enough juice to drive the subs. I’m assuming the subs are 4ohm impedance. That means hooking them in parallel as mazilla said. Do you understand a parallel hook up? If they are 4ohms that will give you 2 ohms and that’s tricky load to drive with two drivers per side.

It may mean blowing output fuses,it may not, depends on the amp. The advantage being that 4 subs don’t have to work as hard or being driven as much to produce the same voulume as 2. Let me know the impedance.

If you do it this way, take the sub output from the deck, run it to the amp, add a y-connector at the amp and feed both channels. Hook the subs up as mentioned above.

Run the front outputs of the deck to one set of inputs on the 4 channel amp and hook those to the front MBs. The rear output goes to the other two channels and the rear MBs.

The other option if your deck allows is to use the decks amp to drive the front MBs, send the rear output to the 770 to drive the rear MBs, send the sub output to the 4 channels of the using a 4 way splitter or equivalent and drvie each sub with one cahnnel. The front MBs being much closer won’t need as much power to drive them but it likely won’t be as clean and clear as using the 4 channel.

This would be less preferred in my opinion. Also keep in mind that the 4MBs will provide a fair amount of mid-upper bass to help support the low end. However bas signals tend to draw a lot of current. I think your hookup plan will work and at the worst you may blow some fuses in the 770 and have to reconfigure using the deck or buy another 2 channel if you can’t trade in 770 towards another 4 channnel.

I think you may have a fair amount of tuning to do as well due to the amount of low to mid drivers you have compared to mid top, your system may well be bottom heavy, but that’s up to you, a good EQ might be in order.[/quote]

thnaks for saving me allot of typing. like i said before, if you notice severe dimming during hard bass hits i would suggest a capcitator. it is like a power reserve just waiting for that heavy bass hit. by the time the drop is complete, the cap has supplied all the power needed and is recharging for the next hit. it’s actually kinda scary, i have heard of people using these type’s of parts from high voltage power boxes. this was where the idea came from, don’t quote me on that.they run in the 100 dollar range(or at least they used to). also, i would keep the 1k on the subs. i don’t recall seeing anything about their rms, that would be a deciding factor.as for the highs and mids the idea of running 2 to the amp(rears) and 2 to the head unit, may not be a bad idea. the sound quality may differ due to wattage, in the worst case the rears would over power the fronts. you could probably find a comfortable level just by fading to the fronts more, but without being there it’s hard to imagine it. did you ever mention what kind of truck it is???

there in an EQ built into my deck (upper end sony) and the 770 is a sony explode amp. So what your saying is i would be better off installing all 4 subs vs 2, as it would work better?

[quote]Split wrote:
there in an EQ built into my deck (upper end sony) and the 770 is a sony explode amp. So what your saying is i would be better off installing all 4 subs vs 2, as it would work better?[/quote]

more subs = more bass. since your head unit most likely has finite sound contols, you might be lucky enough to get a good enough tuning job out of the front 2.this would help even out the sound difference you’ll have. also running it this way allows you to add 2 more speakers like tweeters or something. 2 to the amp and 4 from the head. i’m not to thrilled about the explode components though, from experience they are not the best. since you already have it all, what can you do but do the best with what you’ve got? besides, if you run only the rear speakes to the amp, they will be pretty close to it. this will save you wire and time by not having to run it so far.(speaker wire at least)

well i dont want too much bass, as it is only a truck with an extended cab, i would like a balanced sound. And are you saying i shouldnt run my fronts to my amp?

The one thing that always bothered me and prevented me from doing my own amp run is hiding the cables. Whats the easiest way to do that wthout ripping up the carpet or snaking it through the body?

Could I just use a run from one of the back speakers and connect that to the amp or would I have to run a dedicated line from the head unit into the amp?

I personally don’t know a better way of hiding cables than putting them under the carpet - I suppose it varies from car to car.

It takes time but is well worth it and there’s nothing like a neat setup.

Definately run RCAs from the front of the vehicle rather than tap into the speaker wires themselves. And run as far away from the power cable as possible.

If your amp is a higer end sony then there should be more than one set of the RCAs.

Someone previously had mentioned that hooking the subs up in parallel would create a two ohm load. That is if you are using 2 subs rather than the 4. 4 subs in parallel creates a one ohm load. That is if the subs are all 4 ohm.

I may have missed it but i am unsure if it was started what the impedance of the subs are and what the 1000 watt amp is stable to. Those will be some of the major determining factors. Also i would check to make sure that the guy at the stereo store sold you a sufficient amp kit. The power and ground wire should be a minimum of 4GA.
See Ya

i really dont know what your talking about haha

Basically, if you’re doing it yourself then take you time.

To avoid suppression, you run your power cable to the amp from the battery on one side of the car, and the cable between to the head unit and the amp on the other side.

Suppression is a “humming” noise you get if the power cable is too close to the wire connecting amp/head unit.

So, have you decided what exactly you are going to do? Tell us what you want to use and what kind of setup you want and then perhaps someone can offer you more specific advice.

so i just run my speaker wire from the speakers right to the amps? or am i somehow hooking them up via rca cables?